March 29, 2015 - Whats been going on?

Well, its been awhile since we updated the blog with 87823 adventures. After a month down south (wandering in the desert and playing shit golf) and the world's supply of gardening back here in God's Own Country (2 lawns, many very big rock removals and the shifting of much dirt), we moved on with the front end dramas and we are now into the engine removal phase.

Overall we also have a target for teardown of the full chassis! The aim is for completion by end of May as the metal work and major surgery is now scheduled over the summer.

First though the front end:

Surprisingly, most of the removal, lights, grills, badging and, to my horror, the front deco strips actually came apart reasonably well. A fair amount of heat (propane) and fairly large amounts of the magic penetration fluid (acetone and ATF mixed 50/50) eased up most of the bolts, most of which hadn't moved in 60 odd years.

The RF came apart the easiest and only one or two bolts committed suicide in the removal process.

The front bumper captive bolts did just that, remained captive, so the bumper will need to be addressed during the metal work portion of the project. And, wonder of wonders, some bright spark in the distant past brazed the bumper mounts to the chassis instead of using the high bumper mount supports and captive nuts for alignment. Another joy to deal with.

The front end wiring loom presented a few challenges. The RF loom is routed through the RF fender support bracket. This connects up into the tube to the headlight bucket. After 60 years, the bracket tube was filled with crud and decision time was either the bracket or the loom. Things didn't work out well for the bracket (which was on the replacement list anyway) and Mr. Dremel was pressed into action. With the tube eviscerated, removal of the headlamp wiring was that much easier.


Above is a pic of the bracket before the Dremel meeting. The tube for the headlamp wiring is the one which bends upwards in the middle. Much of the 60 year old dirt was in the elbow.

The LF tube / fender bracket had a similar issue but with half a can of WD40 down the tube, the loom emerged unscathed. Minor cut on the right side horn ground wire will need to be replaced but overall a good result. All wiring was documented and conforms to the factory wiring diagrams.

Below are the items removed just from the front end. Ziploc bags with corresponding notes and bin locations are highly recommended. You will go crazy if parts control is not on your project list. The corresponding parts replacement list lives in a spreadsheet with Porsche part numbers against each part. This will make life much easier when the time comes for ordering.

Finally,  a pic of the RF and LF looms ready to be pulled back under the dash. Those with sharp eyesite will notice the product of the new heat gun which has done a superb job of melting the undercoat. There be virgin metal there!

Next week: remove the engine (should be interesting), followup with Porsche for the COA (8 weeks ordered!),, full report then.

 My desk, yesterday:

Identification Numbers

One thing about these cars is the almost fanatical focus on serial numbers and the great utopia of 'numbers matching'.

I have always just wanted to get her back on the road,, the 'driver' level of restoration. But, as part of the project, some tracking of the holy numbers grail is probably warranted.

First though, a blast from the past:

Now, how scary is that. My 1973 Ontario Registration. Umm ok, a few problems throwing things away.

First the engine number:

Chassis Plate from drivers hinge pillar:

Below is a snip from an article on the ConvD site which should give us some idea of what the Beast (and she/he does have a name but that is for another post) has for original numbers:

The full |ConvD article can be found here=>

http://convertibledregistry.com/facts_info_vin_locations.html

So, on to some pics of some of the VIN locations from the above list:

 Convertible top frame (823)

Trunk Floor (87823)

Front Deck Latch (23) (you need to squint a bit)

Just under the engine cover latch (23) (you need to squint a lot)

Doors (the 23 is kind of hard to see,, squint maybe)

Transmission

Some other id numbers from the first week of teardown:

Wheels:

• 2 marked as 2 60 (Feb 1960 manuf. date)
• 1 marked as 1 60
• 1 marked as 2 58 (Commerz marked on rim)
• And 1 (spare) marked as VW which means very weird to be on a Porsche)

Some electrical numbers from the rear:

Right Rear

Tail light 

• lens 3260 SWF logo
• Chrome SWFk3260
• Gasket 399843
• Bulb CGE1129 (brake)
• 6821 Philips (turn)

Right License light

• Lens K12844 Hella

Right Reflector ULO K11246 No135 (and some asshole used a wrench on the back and squashed the mount)

Left Rear

• All serial numbers identical to those above for Right Rear

Reverse Light Lens Hella 62548

And the Certificate of Authenticity from Porsche (TA DA)

Rear wiring pics and diagram - 15 Dec

ok,, so I was never particularly adept with my diagrams. But we did get the rear more or less complete today, apart from a few nasty resisting bolts (useless to resist) that I will deal with as the penetrating fluids work. I;ve added the serial numbers over on the identification page so this is just the wiring and some pics of the rear assemblies.
Tomorrow, the fuel tank and on to the front lamps (yes, I have read |Ron R's book on this topic) and horns etc.

Fabulous wiring diagram:

Are you not Entertained?

One thing about getting the beast here and spending some time with her, one can spend a lot more time just looking. And getting rust in my eyes,, sigh

At this point, I will go after the bright and shiny bits, ie lamps, indicators etc. first, then remove the engine, then on to the interior. I need to get this puppy to roller by end April / May for Jim to do the chassis work over next summer. So we'll start with this basic premise and see how it works out.

Thing is, most of the parts are all original. Since I have had her (68) the engine hasn't been out and she has sat in Mums garage since 72.

Under the dash is very good and I would like to preserve as much as possible. We are resigned to the chassis work. The engine will be done by Weissach Porsche in Vancouver (known them since 98) and me as much as possible.

I mean, how hard can this be?

Some observations.

 The right front has a different headlight bucket than the left. Brett's book suggests that the LF is the original although both Hella are same number. There are some pics below.

 Some sand blasting is in the future I think. Jim from Original Restorations is due next week for discussions on moving forward late next spring.

Second prang looks light on L rear. tailights are correct but looks like the bumper has been moved a bit.  All other bits around the rear are ok though. Have removed RRtaillight and lic light. Notes and schematics in notebook. scan.

Some things we do know:

wheels:
2 from 2/60, mod 1585
1 /60
2/58 (a bit of speedster?) but the factory stockpiled them. note on rim: 'Commerz'


Some pics:

Front headlight buckets:
RF

 LF

Some challenges in the road ahead

Got the fabulous red shag carpets out of the car back in September. Didn't really think they would be right and besides I was somewhat curious, as one might be, to have a look at the pans, tunnel, etc.
Below are a series of pics. We'll discuss these in detail as THE PLAN comes together.

 Ahh yes,, what lies beneath

Yes, I actually worked the events that you can see on the dash plaques,, Now that was a few years ago.

I turned on the radio the other day with a small 6 volt I bought for circuit testing. Apparently, Buddy Holly was Top of the Pops. A bit weird. Lester Pearson was PM of Canada as well. Very strange to hear his voice again.

As a Toronto car, she would have suffered with salt. Some bight spark in the past used great amounts of fiberglass on the pans. In many ways, this would have actually spared the serious rust. They need to be replaced though.

 Now, as most know, there was a reason to relocate the battery to the passenger footwell,.. ie. the battery box was rusted out.,, Sigh

Also, you can't quite make them out but there are the little tacks used by the elves in Stuttgart to tack in the carpet around the speakers.